DTRE Lights are probably going to be the best in terms of brightness. They are so much better than the DTR ones, and the enduro ones are really more for style over substance. Again, you actually don't need lights for a legitimate MOT. But if they are fitted, then they must comply. What we do is simply place a piece of card over the bulbs, and tape up the switches. You can get a day time MOT with that done.

@calum yeah most likely a bridge rectifier, 4 diodes arranged to smooth out the sine wave. Regulator will drop the voltage by also dissipating heat which causes issues of its own

I'll take another look at the side stand switch tomorrow and let you know, its not been on for the past 5 months as far as I'm aware. @Zrako The bike doesn't pull when it goes in to gear at all.

@gareth_iowc Yes, there is a need for aftermarket CDI's always. The YZ is designed for track use and isn't great for road. Retarding the ignition, smoothing the band out will help. YOu could also tailor the band to specific tracks. But as Darty says, you're getting very specialist here. You'd need a dyno to measure the results. But on the tame DTR's, it's very noticeable difference.

@declan clarify should it close back up at max revs

@vtrn_raptor I think mine was £20 and it is £20 worth of deterrent. Ifbthat helps.

Is it not in that pdf i sent out last week? Iirc it's connected to the battery via a heavy duty red (positive) cable which then goes to the starter motor. I think that the black (earth) cable goes from the battery to the solenoid then from there attaches to the engine. There is also a two wire plug that goes to the solenoid which is the lower power switching signal which is connected to the starter button. No pics I'm afraid I'm away on holiday at mo

@dan28 said in 1989 switch gear wiring: Thank you I m running a vapour speedo if it's wired to the blue wire does it only illuminate when the lights are on ? Yes

Norwp, I needed to make sure that I could physically mount it to the radiator aswell. But thanks for your concern :joy:

According to the handy diagram I posted for you, the horn lol

@declan said in Pinned pv sucks a**: @scrimsmustang this may be my fault I only disconnected the one wire and I think the valve was actually closed most of the time but either way I didn't like it Yeah, everyone to there own like. I much prefer a pinned powervalve on the old bikes.

can't seem to find them in the manual but it's probably just me being blind

@declan I was led to believe that all DT's up tp '98 were de-restricted, but I may be wrong? See here for Scrimsmustangs ultimate guide; https://www.slideshare.net/kerryprinceuk/derestricting-the-yamaha-dt125-r-1988-through-to-2007-scrimsmustangs-classic-yamaha-restorations

@gareth_iowc Full model list; http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/yamaha.php However they are a re-programmable CDI, if you can find or have a custom map made for your bike, then you're good to go. If not then it's that model list above only sadly.

@vtrn_raptor It's an indicator relay I believe, if you type the part number into the search box on Fowlers webby, it will tell you which bikes use that part. Just scroll down to find the year of your DTR; https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/29U-81950-93?gclid=CISM1Za6jdUCFW4A0wodj9AJOw

@Calum well I hope the the battery was a little flat and hopefully nothing's on it's way out, yeah I saw that's my bad I didn't realise sorry buddy.

Think I'm gunna go with a oem one for now and on my last post I definitely think it's a cdi problem as it sparked for a while then I put it back where it was supposed to go and nothing and on the plus side can put the pv back on the servo with a new cdi

Yeah I've checked everything mate and cbf with my it no more wanted to do it all myself but I haven't got time to be wasting trying to figure it out so gunna take it to fowlers and get them to sort it

Hello bud,probably a bad earth on the rear light or indicators 👍