@vtrn_raptor It's an indicator relay I believe, if you type the part number into the search box on Fowlers webby, it will tell you which bikes use that part. Just scroll down to find the year of your DTR; https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/29U-81950-93?gclid=CISM1Za6jdUCFW4A0wodj9AJOw

@Calum well I hope the the battery was a little flat and hopefully nothing's on it's way out, yeah I saw that's my bad I didn't realise sorry buddy.

Think I'm gunna go with a oem one for now and on my last post I definitely think it's a cdi problem as it sparked for a while then I put it back where it was supposed to go and nothing and on the plus side can put the pv back on the servo with a new cdi

Yeah I've checked everything mate and cbf with my it no more wanted to do it all myself but I haven't got time to be wasting trying to figure it out so gunna take it to fowlers and get them to sort it

Hello bud,probably a bad earth on the rear light or indicators

@declan So removing items from the circuit alters the impedence of that circuit.

I'll close the other thread I wasn't very clear with what the problem was up to now I was told to get a multi meter I have one now and checked the voltage at the wires that's as far as we got

@dazzagtir I had the same problem and was never able to resolve it. But see here bud, loadsa tips there; https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/613/led-indicators

Could be a knackered regulator/rectifier

I run surface mounted diodes for my rear light no problems. There is no circuitry involved with the rear lights, it's simply a switch hooked up to the 12v rail on the bike. So test for conitunity between these two lines and you should be able to figure it out.

@Zrako That's an RE

The battary is brand new just went flat I'll charge it up

Yeah it's a normally open circuit and you have to close the circuit for it to work.

Yh weird isn't it,its got the red sleeve like the 4dl should have and 4dl is printed on the circuit board so the insides are deffo 4dl Maybe the case is a repair case for when u cut the old one off but where would u even get something like that ?haha

Better still, grab a thermal coupler. The problem with the temperature sensor is that it measures the temperature of the coolant, not the engine. The engine will go into detonation long before the coolant rises enough to become noticeable. Therefore using a thermal coupler you will notice this spike almost immediately and be able to rectify the situation before it becomes detrimental.

@wonkbreath Yes, but Zeeltronic provide base maps for you to tweak. If you want a decent map you will have to pay a specialist who knows what they are doing. It's not EFI, so getting the fueling right is going to be trial and error. I know the Rob over in Yamaha Skellerns Cheltenham is familiar with the Zeeltronic systems and has tuned Belgarda SP's running them before.

Another vote for the vapour Speedo from me[image: Q1Gsa2L.jpg]

Never even thought of a lithium battery. Thanks @CYBER-NINJA

@dan28 I also have some labelled clocks these are one plastic square plug with 6 terminals 1 female with black wire 1 female spade 2x blue wires 1 female bullet green/red 1 female female bullet green / white also should there be another female bullet with black wire as its spare http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/dan25_2006/20170328_192251.jpg