DT125R FORUM

Measure across the pick up sensor. Make sure that you are getting current to trigger the CDI. You will want to follow that pulse from the pickup to the CDI. From the CDI you will see it go to the primary coil. From there it should go to the secondary mutal winding and out to the HT lead. It's as simple as that. Somewhere you are losing that signal.

DEPs are slightly different. They will fit, but as sound mounts are different. Just get one for the RE/X

I don't think so, stators are self regulating.

I don't know the internal workings of one.

But an alternator uses battery power to generate power. But the DT uses a generator, so no battery power is needed.

So for example, if a high load is demanded on an alternator, it could wear it out, but I don't think that's true for a generator. I don't know....

@Bananper I would know i'm afraid.

The TZR Belgarda uses a 3MB Engine. I can't remember if I used the coils from that engine on my loom. I would have thought so. But I don't know about the 2RK models. The Belgarda engines should be somewhat scarce.

@Bananper also i changed the regulator aswell

I run that on my DT RE

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Racing-Performance-Ignition-Coil-Yamaha-DT-125-RE-2006/152317014956?hash=item2376cd33ac:g:X8gAAOSwcUBYKOsT

The problem is, the CDI's, generator and stator is different from both models. I wouldn't want to run the wrong coil, generate a weak spark, loss of performance.

@Calum everything seems to be right. Ypvs works. I pulled out the plug yesterday, on the end of the ground electrode there were a small bit of carbon, i thought that was causing the problem. I swapped the plug, and same thing happens when the bike gets hot. Could it be pre ignition? I've read that carbon deposits on the piston could cause pre ignition when the bike heats up.

Pick up a cap from the Scrappy, any car one with the same pressure will work aslong as it has the old style rad cap. You'll pay Penny's for it.

@crispy yeah I know about the starter I was just referring to motocross bikes, if it spits your finger off it's probably good

@declan Someone scrapped a perfectly fine Glanza shell the other day. Criminal. Considering how rare they are. DT's were made world wide. It's sad to see them go, but that's just the way it is.

@Calum im just putting on a new wire i think, do you have any idea where it should go to?

@Bananper Get yourself one of these bud, give it a good swish around the bottom end and hopefully you will pick up any loose fragments;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Shaft-Bendable-Magnetic-Pick-Up-Tool-With-LED-Light-And-Strong-Magnet/391962870896?epid=15017009964&hash=item5b42cec470:g:L00AAOSwR0JUO~Ya:rk:72:pf:0

Also change your oil 3-4 times within the first month after the engine is rebuilt, just to flush out any remaining debris. 😉

Might sound silly but you are using a genuine head gasket or an Athena one yes?

@Bananper Without seeing a dyno it's hard to actually gauge.

Two stroke exhaust pipes work off resonance, fitting a pipe designed for another engine is incredibly unlikely to work as intended.

If it does work, then what is likely to be experienced is a shift in power. The WR200 exhaust is designed to produce a particular sound wave at a particular RPM for a particular engine.

When that translates to the DTR, it's likely that it's making less power down low, then picks up to an acceptable level. The change from where it makes less power, to more, (I.E. powerband) is likely to be exaggerated, such that the user thinks it's faster. But without a dyno, it really is hard to tell.

In other words, stick to an exhaust designed for the engine. As it has been designed to provide optimal results.

Yeah definitely should be a plug in there. 1 or 2 cables for the starter solenoid (to spin the starter) and then 1 or 2 for power to the rest of the bike

You'll want a fly wheel puller. And you'll need to lock the crankshaft off to remove it.

Pretty simple job though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-13PC-HARMONIC-BALANCE-CRANKSHAFT-GEAR-PULLEY-PULLER-FLYWHEEL-BALANCER/122134506298?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53530%26meid%3D7ad1578465b741d992b0a55ca04a7f02%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D122134506298&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

That for a DTRE, you'll need a different one for a DTR.

There is a guy on ebay selling complete kits for 100 quid bought one a few weeks ago but he has more on there

@Bananper The dog ears are in the gearbox, they are what shift the gear cogs into place from the selector drum.

I can't see why there would play. The primary shaft is fastened against the case and the bewring.

@Bananper Check all your lines and look for evidence of a leak, if it isn't from your master cylinder or hydraulic lines then dismount your brake caliper and check it over.

£200, but be sure to rebuild it regardless of what the seller tells you.

Obviously the cheaper you can get it the better.