@declan MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OK

@dan28 AAAHHHH good ole Wilko to the rescue. :thumbs_up_medium-light_skin_tone:

@Glynn123 the ride home will always be nicer lol

Lol are you near Nottingham?

@NINJA i know he definitely cheered my week up I can remember them days tho the excitement I’m just a little concerned he’s never rode a geared bike and he stepping up from a 50cc moped. The bike gunna get trashed within the week

£200, but be sure to rebuild it regardless of what the seller tells you.

Obviously the cheaper you can get it the better.

@jamesrandall93 ..... temperature rising quickly? Eerrm it should rise quickly up to normal operating temperature .... you mean in to the red ? ..... im guessing before you posted this you checked the water level ect ? ...... a more detailed description will help us provide you with a better reply 👍

@giles the mixture screw is the smallest one sat in the hole in an angle on the side ...... the bigger one with the adjuster on it is the tickover screw .... hope this helps

On this website they do insurance on vin and it says you can get drive to a pre arranged mot https://ajinsurance.co.uk/personal-insurance/car-insurance/chassis-number-unregistered

The last NOVAs I did, HMRC didn't pass it. They emailed 2 days later requesting a receipt from the previous owner abroad and proof of its age.
Of all the stigma people try and attach to the simple process of registering a legit imported bike with papers there are some genuine hurdles that nobody seems to know about.

To clear it up, for an EU Bike over 10 years old with or without papers you need:

Nova applied for online and a receipt and proof of age, either foreign logbook or dating certificate at the ready incase they email you. MOT V55/5 filled in and sent with the dating certificate if you didn't have logbook.

Also, I've not heard this being done with an EU bike but a non-EU bike can be valued in writing at a dealer if you don't have a receipt.
(Non EU bikes held by private buyers need to fill in the C384 form and email it to Belfast)

For private owners it's worth joining the VJMC for various discounts and get the dating certificate for £25, but they seem to do pre 98 bikes only.

There are people on Facebook who can get a UK reg number for a smallish fee from the frame number of a UK bike.

@jamesrandall93 I’m pretty sure it’s the wr200 system not a direct fit if I reacall correct but close enough there’s threads on here so search them up

@bikemad88 Because only members with sufficient posts and privileges can post on this site. You must have more than 50 posts I believe.

As Scrim says, you can't compare the KDM and KMX as they're two completely different bikes.

Also look at the wr200 as that'll be a solid bike. Again light nimble with a enough poke for them lanes.

When a 2 stroke is left to stand for a while the carb will be gummed up. As someone mentioned, oil change, new 2T oil, new filter, plug and change coolant. Make sure all old petrol is drained and new is put back in. Ride is slow for a 10mins using brakes and clutch etc to break them in again, once your happy all is ok, take it for a good blast, get all tha shit out the exhaust. If it's abit doggy on accelerating, a full carb clean is required. Good luck✊🏻💨

@minia Was going to say, your English is superb lol.

I had a couple of bikes stolen in the past with what i thought was secure in a locked garage. Where i live now have to keep my DT in the back garden, not only thousands spent on it is all the hours spent making it how i want it. So have 3 x 16mm hardened chains through 3 different ground anchors and best paddlocks could get. Thatcham approved disc lock as well as a Datatool Alarm with infra red cctv. And just to make sure it's fitted with an Automatrics MTrack 24 hour monitored tracker which is the best tracker out there.
So feel quite safe for my little DT, spent lots on security but only need to buy once and will do for years and for many bikes. only cost now is £129 a year for the tracker monitoring. So feel safe from thieving scumbags as i can be, even if anyone enters garden my cctv alerts me so be amazed if precious DT ever was stolen.

@jamesrandall93 Well first identify if it is the clutch.

The clutch can be adjusted in three places. If the clutch was set up properly first, then the order of adjustment is.

Clutch Perch lever
Clutch Actuator Arm
Clutch Push Rod

The perch lever is the easiest. and is merely an adjustment at the lever. The knurly knobs on the end of the perch where the cable goes in is what I'm talking about.

You merely adjust the cable until there is a few millimeter play on the lever and the clutch is disengaged when pulled in.

If you've maxed out the adjustment on the lever, then reset it back and move on to the actuator arm.

This is the two nuts on a threaded bar to the left of the cylinder. Again the adjustment is the same.

If this is maxed out and it's still not improved, then you need to whip the clutch cover off and adjust the clutch from the pressure plates.

Dismantle the clutch cover, drain oil and coolant. Then amend the locking nut and threaded bar till positive engagement and then slacken off. Again ensuring you reset the clutch arm and perch prior.

If you still have no luck, then either, the push rods are worn, the ball bearing is worn, or the plates are worn.

The bike should be idling around 1500-2200 RPM's. If it's not, then there is something wrong. It's not a four stroke, it shouldn't be idling around the 1K mark.